If you're visiting Guatemala, this is a must. Here's the short and simple:
The hike takes 4-5 hours minimum and is all uphill. You need a good level of fitness for this, or youthful determination.
Eruptions occur every 15-25 minutes and are visible from Antigua, but are most amazing at the summit.
You will be hiking Volcan Acatenango, the volcano next to Volcan de Fuego, from where you can safely watch the eruptions.
As molten lava is only visible after dark, you will hike up during the evening, camp overnight (and watch the eruptions), and wake up at dawn to maximise your experience of the volcano.
To hike Acatenango, take a bus to Antigua and speak to any hostel, hotel, booking agent, or local, and you will be able to find a tour group to visit the volcano. If you have your own camping gear, you can also do this alone. You don't need to book your hike in advance and I'd actually suggest you wait until you get to Antigua to book it, as you can then ask around, speak to other travellers who've already done the hike, and figure out which guide company both meets your budget and your comfort expectations (group size, type of sleeping arrangements, nutritional value of the dinner etc).
It costs Q50 for the park entry fee, and around Q500-700 to go with a tour group. The benefits of the tour group include:
You do not need to carry your camping gear
A basic dinner is provided to you
If you speak Spanish, you can converse with your guides (!!)
The downsides of a tour group:
You will be hiking with 10-30 other people
The pace set by the group may be too fast or too slow for your preference
Less freedom to move around at your own pace
If you do not own your own camping gear, it will likely be cheaper and easier for you to go with a tour group.
Travelling with a tour group is the most common option, and whilst I normally avoid tours at all cost, I do not regret joining a tour for this particular hike. I was, however, the only participant of our group that spoke Spanish, and whilst the three guides spoke a basic level of English, they were very happy for me to translate to the group during each of our stops. As a result, I ended up at the front of the group, speaking with the guides, for the entire duration of our two day hike. There were a few things I learnt that you can be a part of changing . . . .
On average, a ticket for a guided tour will cost Q500-700. The amount the guides are paid will vary slightly between each tour agency, but the guides are never paid more than the cost of one guest on the hike. That's right, they may only receive Q400 for two days of work and for carrying everyone's gear and food up. The guides (who insisted I post nothing that could identify them) also told me that most guides work only for 5 years, 10 if they're lucky, before the damage to their knees due to the weights they carry becomes so severe that they have to retire. They may do two or even three hikes per week - which is a lot of time away from their families and children.
What you can do - if you are going with a tour group, be prepared to tip your guides generously (before you return to Antigua so there's no chance that their bosses can take their tips). If you're comfortable doing so, I would strongly recommend that during one of the group's last stops on the way down, gather everyone together and take a moment to lead a "thank-you" for the guides, and to advise people that the amount the guides get paid is less than the amount each individual paid for the trip. Encourage your fellow hikers to tip as generously as they can afford, and ensure them that this money will go directly to the guides and their families.
The Guides often Take Other Hikers' Loads
Hiking Acatenango is not easy, and it is a difficult hike. Lots of people on this hike may not be in their physical prime and may struggle with the hike. You're only gone for one night, so all you need to bring is your warm hiking gear, water, snacks, headlight, toothbrush, and photography device. Leave all your other travel items (books, excess toiletries, spare clothes, heavy items, souvenirs) at your hotel, and keep your bag as light as possible.
If you're feeling comfortable with your hike and your bag is quite light, you could offer to take other travellers' items when inevitably someone asks the guides to help carry their load. It's a small gesture, but your guides will appreciate it.
The Guides Deal with a Lot. Every Week.
Be patient and kind with them. If people in the group are complaining, back up the guides and support them.
The most common criticism you will find online is that people struggled to keep up with the pace of the group. This is a hard hike. If you're at the front of the pack, the stops will feel too frequent and too long. If you're at the back of the pack, you will feel that you hardly have the time to stop and catch your breath.
If you see someone struggling on the hike, grab them and help them keep pace at the front for one burst of the hike. Once you're at the front of the pack you will inevitably have more time to stop and breathe between bursts of hiking. This will help your fellow hiker, as well as reduce the risk that hikers at the back may complain about the guides or post negative reviews online. The guides need to keep up a good pace though so that there is time for them to set up camp and cook dinner for everyone. You can help by being an extra buffer between people who are unhappy and the guides.
Befriend Your Guides
Especially if you speak Spanish, hang out with the guides, hike alongside them, and eat dinner with them. They are human beings who do incredibly difficult work to support their families, and they are all incredibly motivated and driven individuals with amazing stories to be heard. Hear their stories, and share their stories with other hikers. They will be grateful for a new friend, and you'll learn a lot more than your fellow hikers about the surrounding area.